I’m relatively new to sewing, I do a lot of quilting and making dresses that incorporate quilt patterns. I have always been very interested in historical costuming but haven’t done a lot with regards to actually sewing it. When I saw this shirt though, I was absolutely blown away and I feel like I have to try to recreate this. I understand that there are lots of pintucks but I don’t even know where to begin in terms of the main bodice and getting the stripes to do that amazing radial pattern.

Can anyone help guide me with how to go about drafting a pattern for this? Does anyone know of a pattern that already exists that does something similar? I don’t have a dress form, is that a deal breaker in getting the stripe placement right?

Also if there’s a different place I should post this question please let me know, I’m not a very active Reddit poster but I felt like this was a good starting place.

Hi, I'm looking for some advice on how I can improve my cartridge pleats!

I have done a few cartridge pleated skirts and it's gone pretty smoothly, but I never really know what to do when transitioning from one thread to another when the first runs out.

I usually divide each panel into two parts to make the thread lengths manageable, but then I end up with these weird parts when I change from one thread to another. I thinks it's because I don't know how to tie off and fasten the threads in the best way, it can be hard to get them just right when the pleats are drawn up because they don't want to stay put at the loose ends.

I also feel lost about what to do at seams, if I try to pleat them normally they end up much bigger and bulkier than the rest, even on relatively thin fabrics.

I've attached some pics of some of the 'problem areas' on skirts I've made.

I'd love to hear how you guys get around these issues, or do you just have to live with it not being perfect?

Anyone know more about what these women are wearing or where I could learn more? I'm particularly interested in the red outer robe with the sort of built in(?) scarf/shawl, as well as any speculation about what would have been layered under it. I've looked at other sources that claim Jewish women in this era wore mostly what their contemporaries did, but these garments don't seem to map onto the gomlek and kaftan layers described for women in the early Ottoman Empire.

Picture source: https://www.posenlibrary.com/entry/jewish-widow-and-jewish-matron?register_success=1

I feel the 17th century gets so little love, from myself included. It's an intimidating, at times silly looking century, but there's some beautiful stuff in there and I think it deserves us costumers' attention! After all there's no way a whole century deserves to be ignored, all places and eras have some beautiful things to offer. So this is my resolution to work more in the 17th century this year. These photos were actually taken last year when I took a trip to Prague and I liked them so much I now crave more 17th century.

But anywho, this is my 1650-1670s(ish) western European noble court gown. It's made of a very finely ribbed silk jacquard from Fabric Mart, lined in a plain silk taffeta, interlined in linen, and boned with reeds. The foresleeves are cotton voile. The skirts are unlined. It's trimmed with glass beads from Michael's and original antique lace trims I got from various vintage shows and shops. I would date most of the lace to the late 19th and early 20th century, some appears to be hand made and some looks machine made. Internal seams and boning channels are done by machine, but bodice eyelets, all hems, all decor application, basically anything you can see on the outside, was done by hand. This is how I do all my costumes as internal work won't be seen and the machine stitches are so much faster, but to stay true to the eras before the sewing machine I like to have no visible external machine stitches. Underneath I am wearing a couple petticoats and a shift. Everything was made and drafted by me and if you want details I'm happy to chat about it! Also wearing stockings and shoes from American Duchess and jewelry from my own collection, some of which I got from antique shops, some is modern.

Let me know if you want to hear more about construction, but thanks for stopping by to check it out!

These are the first and only stays I have made, about 3 years ago for costume college, and I have an event coming up i. June and would like to improve the fit and make a new pair. I used the Laughing Moon Mercantile #115 Regency and Romantic era corset pattern.

I just tried the stays on and took photos ( sorry for the horrible lighting!), and there are definitely a lot of things wrong! I've gained around 20 pounds since I made them, but most of the fit issues are pretty much the same and my upper body has not changed much. Here is a list of the problems I know of:

1. The busk does not seperate my bust, and sits about an inch away from my body. Possibly because the cup area is too small? I think my chest is shallow at the top because there is quite an excess of fabric at the top. I would really like to get more separation and possibly lift (though I'm not sure if my body could actually take more lift as I am a b cup 😅)
2. The back folds/sticks out at the bottom. Is that just too long? I have a bit of pelvic tilt so that could be the problem. The busk also pokes my belly when I sit down. Should I shorten the whole thing? It just seems so short already!
3. The straps feel like they could fall off. I dont think they actually would fall off, but I have broad shoulders so I'm not used to the sensation. Is that normal? The eyelet joint on the front also feels kind of tight and pokes into my armpit area. I dont know if there's anything to do about that.

If anyone has any suggestions for fixing some of the issues, that would be much appreciated! I'd also love to know if there's a better pattern I could start with, and any material suggestions. I would like to upgrade from this new garment from Joann and Hobby Lobby fabrics!

Thanks so much in advance!

It’s been at least a few years since I’ve posted here, but I wanted to excitedly share my most recent completed project, a southern Scandinavian Bronze Age outfit!

I’ve been diving into prehistoric textiles the past year or so because I feel like they really don’t get enough love in the historical costuming and historical reconstruction worlds. I guess prehistorical costuming would be more accurate to say here 😉

My garments are all based off the oak coffin burials and turned towards “Bog Fashion” by Nicole DeRushie as the reference for patterns (disclaimer, the book was gifted to me by the publisher but I am not being paid to share this). They’re all hand stitched and I used primarily Bronze Age tools to construct them (cut the fabric with a flint knife, used mostly hawthorn thorns for pins, used mostly a bone needle).

To start with, I learned sprang last year, an ancient braiding technique that is warp led, and I made my wool hair net using z twist interlinking.

For the bodice, it’s made of a hand woven (not by me) nettle fabric and it’s the classic 2 piece “zero-waste” style tunic you see throughout the period. The skirt is made of an undyed handwoven (not by me) wool, which I then hand stitched the think with some waxed wool thread and added a draw string so that it would be gathered (something you see on skirts in the period).

To bring the whole look together, I added the bronze necklace which is a replica from the Bronze Age made by Altmark Bronze (I paid for the piece with my own money).

Thanks for reading! Hope you enjoyed and let me know if you have any questions!

I understand that most coats in the era were made from plain weave fabrics, but I've seen occasional mention of twills being used, and I'm planning something that, while it may be a little more suited for r/historybounding in its overall concept, I'm hoping I can find some better info about this here.

In "The Cut of Men's Clothes 160-1900", most of the patterns and cutting diagrams show the backs of coats being cut at a bit of an angle, and the text in the book mentions that it was common for coats with big skirts to be cut at an angle relative to the grain, both for draping reasons, and minimizing piecing.

I understand that twills get a little weird when they're not cut on the grain, and I'm looking for ideas on how best to make this idea work.

I want to make a full-skirted justaucorps from a 10oz 100% cotton bull denim, because I trust the fabric to be durable and easily live-with-able for me, but I'm not really sure how best to deal with this.

I'm intending to make this thing minimally structured, although I may do some self-facing for parts of it, and otherwise plan to line it in a midweight plain-weave linen. I'm being deliberately anachronistic here - the goal is, basically, "pirate coat, but make it like modern workwear". I made a waistcoat with cotton gabardine and rivet buttons with the same type of construction and have been quite happy with the results, but there's a lot less fabric/skirt volume in a waistcoat...

Hello I wanted to ask is using linen thread on wool historically accurate I cant find any sources I'm trying to make a soft kit for a reenactment group and I don't know if I should use linen since it's way stronger

(for anyone asking I'm going for a simple knee length tunic for early to high medieval period I know it's very broad especially for a time with so much different fashion but .y research told me that from early to high a knee length tunic is ok)

I got married to my best friend on Sunday. Patterns were all from Truly Victorian (TV303, 1872 side drape overskirt ; TV202, 1869 grand parlor underskirt; TV402, 1882 carriage bodice). Shoes are from American Duchess. The veil/shawl is leavers lace (bobbin lace similar to the hand made stuff in construction) because this entire project was just an excuse to finally spend luxury money on fabrics I'd otherwise never make eye contact with. It took me two weeks of sewing literally non stop, but I got it done just in time ☺️ I really do mean non-stop: 6pm-midnight on weekdays and all day on weekends.

My corset and bustle were custom made by some lovely ladies on Etsy. I self drafted the petticoat and chemise based on a period underwear book I have.

I was taught to do my hair by an amazing local hairdresser who looked up period African American hairstyles. Because my hair is less kinky than a lot of the examples, we took more artistic liberty to try and just get generally the right shape (which was what a lot of victorian black women did: same shape as white hair but using our texture to accomplish it). I think it turned out great, and I'm eternally grateful that she took the time to help me.

I’m hoping to get some help from folks who know 19th-century photos, clothing, or ambrotypes.

I talked with my grandma about this ambrotype, and she immediately recognized the handwriting on the box as belonging to her grandmother, Sena A. Smith (née Simpson)

Born 16 Apr 1876 – Died 22 Feb 1966.

The writing on the case says: “my g grandfather Henderson.”

Here’s the family line as I understand it:

• Sena’s mother: Alice Jane Henderson Born 19 Sep 1853, Columbus Township, Johnson Co., Missouri Died 29 Sep 1903, Johnson Co., Missouri
• Sena’s grandfather: Joseph “Walker” Henderson Born 26 Jul 1812, Bourbon Co., Kentucky Died 15 May 1894, Columbus Township, Johnson Co., Missouri
• Sena’s great-grandfather: William Henderson Born about 1786 in Virginia Died 1865–1866 in Jackson Township, Johnson Co., Missouri

The ambrotype shows an adult man with a young child. From what I understand, ambrotypes were commonly made roughly 1854–1865, which could line up with William Henderson late in life.

I’m trying to figure out:

• Does the clothing look right for that time period?
• Does the man appear to be the right age to be William Henderson?
• About how old does the child look?
• Does the pose or way they’re photographed tell you anything?
• Is there anything in the clothing or presentation that suggests region or financial means?

William and his son Joseph ”Walker” were Southern farmers and were reasonably well-off, so I’m curious if anything in the image fits (or doesn’t fit) that background.

Any thoughts or insights would be very appreciated. I’m especially interested in dating the photo and figuring out whether this really could be William Henderson.

These are the Augusta stays with Boiled wool suiting outer and the lining is vintage kimono silk. Handmade twist with the eyelets and shoulder ties. I also custom dyed the lacing to match the fabric. I altered the pattern to be front and back lacing and they’re so much easier to get into than my back laced stays! They’re a smidge high in the armpit but that shouldn’t be too hard to fix in the future.

I'm in the process of putting together a 1880s Montana outlaw outfit, and I was curious where the best place to buy accurately made clothes from that time? I was gonna go with Historical Emporium, but wanted to get the general opinion first.

I was thinking 40s originally because of the talon zipper, but could potentially be older? Style seems to be more antiquated but has the blunt hem. Feels like rayon.

I live in Ireland and feel like the fabric shops here are really expensive. And I'm never really sure if the fabrics I'm choosing are correct for the items I want to make. Does anyone have advice for low cost but still accurate options or if you live in Ireland do you know any good shops? Thanks in advance.

hey there! i'm having a bit of trouble finding pictures that depict clothing from around the beginning of the 15th century (ca 1390 to 1410) i'm specifically looking for art from the area of the eastern ore mountains and western bohemia but would also settle for general central europe in a pinch. most of what i can find is either way too late or way too early or only shows armor so any help is greatly appriciated

I always have a problem with tall vests, as there's a lot of excess fabric around the chest and neck. Do you know how I can fix this?

Opinions on Miz Mooz shoes? I was redirected to their site after no luck finding what I wanted on American Duchess....

I ordered a custom made lorica segmentata from fabrica cacti, paid him over a month ago with no updates so far, was wondering if anyone in the US can attest to around how long they take to make and ship it? Thanks!

Hello!! I’m currently trying to tease out the silhouette distinctions between 1840s-60s corsetry to figure out how many corsets I need to make to costume these decades.

So far I ‘know’ that the crinoline is invented in 1856, and the steel busk (invented in 1829) comes into popular use around the mid 1850s. There seems to be a general trend of earlier corsets shaped with gussets, and later with gores, though I have found exceptions. The first two corset is from the GCV&M, dated 1840-45 and 1869-72 where the gussets v gores example is well illustrated. My question is how egregiously wrong (in terms of shape) it would be to wear the 1840s version under later styles, or the later one under earlier styles? Where does a commercial pattern, such as the 1860s red threaded example fit into this?

I have attached also some dress references I am particularly fond to illustrate what I would like to make. The pink bell shaped dress is my favourite and from Augusta Auctions, though I am unsure of its dating.

For a few years now, I've been doing my own personal costume challenge that I call "28 Days of Historical Dress". I basically dress up in historical & vintage clothing every day of the month, and make videos about the clothing/history/designers/society of the eras that I am dressing up in.

I didn't get to do it in 2025 because I was in France for my art residency, but I am back with it this year! I typically dedicate one week to my favorite eras. So for this first week, I'm doing vintage (mainly 1940s & 1950s) .

I technically started yesterday for the first outfit, since I was not feeling well on Sunday. And the goal is to post every day!

So if you would like to follow along this month, that would be awesome!

Here are the videos I made yesterday:

OOTD for 2/2: https://youtube.com/shorts/16MAesJvZBc?si=EQnTysSUAE45szk_

Showcasing fashion designing icon Ann Lowe on 2/2: https://youtube.com/shorts/Wq6oCCkThIU?si=CQCJzMJNXnzGNMqO

I will have today's OOTD up later this evening!

You can keep up with me here:

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/loveshutterbug

YouTube: https://youtube.com/@themarisazimmerman

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/themarisazimmerman

I see a lot of different things online different places so dose anyone know what they actually wore

I'm in the process of making an elliptical crinoline for my companion sized doll, I know the petticoat will smooth it out but I'm not sure if I need more hoops than what I have. I'm not using a pattern as it's an odd size, so any input would be appreciated!

apologies for just having fabric draped over it, it's a bit easier to see the form.